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it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. :-). Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. This is more of a bit of a reality check. I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. any ideas? Chris, Should the iac% fluctuate? Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. It is a common one. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news Comp. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Thank you very much. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Let's start by not assuming anything. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! P.S. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Check fuel pressure too (. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? But nothing beats a good solid gut-check Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. So the issue Im having is low idle. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. It won't take much! when things aren't working and this provides just that. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. All times are GMT-6. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Hello Chris. Save Share. I did change the -40 thing also. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. Yes, you are correct. That will at least tell you something. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. If you use your handheld to go here: Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. Holley have given a new unit. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Try it! Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. The IAC going to 30 is normal. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Take it a step at a time. Tried that and it didn't work? If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Enjoy! The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Thanks! You are aware of the idle-up problem. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. Thanks. Did you find this enlightening? Do you have any clue? I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! It's all part of the adventure! Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. idles good, runs amazing. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I believe because the TPS is not registering. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. :-). In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Please advise. Good This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. See these. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. What should I be looking at to calm this down? The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. % = 49 Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. The RPM would increase for no reason. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. check out the. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. Then your low idle problem will go away. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below.